What is it about the T Shirt? Is it merely its simplicity that makes it the most ubiquitous article of clothing across the globe?  Yet implicit in its simplicity, in its ease of wearing, lies a cry for expression—the T shirt becomes a blank canvass by which any simple human can express himself/herself and create their external identity.  The T shirt becomes a medium for advertising, for political statements, for conversation starters. And then, of course, there is the choice to wear a blank T shirt.

Bergdorf Goodman Ombre T-Shirt: $295

Thus, to cater to one’s mood as much as to cater to coordinating with, say, a pair of jeans, or maybe a mini skirt and stilettoes, most people own more T shirts than they’d actually like to admit.

Luckily, as a result of their simplified structure and basic material construction, T shirts remain fairly cheap.  Still, in fashion nothing is sacred (or else, everything is) and if it’s good enough to cover the body, eventually it—or a version if it—will become haute couture.  And that means one thing: the T shirt goes from a package of 5 for $4.99, to a price tag you could use to pay your mortgage.

How much, then, does the most fashionable of High Fashion T shirts set you back?  So glad you asked!

The tidy sum of $1625 will get you what currently holds rank as the most expensive T Shirt in the world: the Balmain.  Sporting the thoughtfully frayed and torn  garment, you can brag to your fashionista friends that the hand-made holes in your army green T shirt  left little bits of fabric behind that theoretically are worth hundreds of dollars themselves.  The Balmain line keeps its reputation for luxury-priced T’s healthy, by also holding the number 2 spot for priciest T shirt with its infamously knocked-off black number—a version that is torn to shreds and held together with safety pins.  The original goes for $1545, but countless Youtube.com videos will show you how to make your own.  Luckily, no sewing skills required. And if you’ve got that kind of money to throw around, why not accessorize with a $250,000 watch? According to Manhattan Time Service Watch Repair, the Opus Eleven costs about a quarter million dollars and there are only 111 of them in existence.

In the men’s fashion world, the price tag for a high fashion T shirt drops considerably.  The global purveyor of designer fashion, Bergdorf Goodman, offers a Maison Martin Margiella T shirt for the bargain price of $580.  Certainly this is because it has no holes and appears to be, well, brand new.  The simple, gray T shirt could easily be mistaken for a Fruit of the Loom varietal, were it not for the claim on the Bergdorf website, that as “a work of complex simplicity, it must be worn to be fully understood.”  Truly, one would hate to ruin that kind of investment with sweat stains, so it is appropriate that the T shirt be intended for wearing while quietly contemplating its philosophical composition, rather than playing squash.

It would seem, the price of fashion—like the T shirt itself—is nothing more than a state of mind.

We recently sat down with renowned graphic t-shirt designer Matt Lyon to pick his brain about his creative process and get some advice on how to start out in the t-shirt design business. Matt first made a name for himself on threadless.com, a community that votes on t-shirt designs, and he describes his style as abstract, wild, and colorful.

Alex Levin: When and how did you first get interested in design, and did you have any formal training?

Matt Lyon: I’ve been doodling for as long as I can remember and have always been interested in art. I studied Fine Art at University College London, and then moved on to teaching Photography and Graphic Design. In 2008 I decided to quit teaching and pursue a freelance career on a full-time basis.

AL: Who are your most influential artists, not necessarily t-shirt design artists?

ML: This is a tough question because there are so many artists that I love. I guess that if I had to narrow it down to those that I find influential, I’d say Paul Klee for his use of colour and Jean Dubuffet for his freedom of drawing. Klee coined the phrase ‘taking a line for a walk’, which is something that I do every time I pick up a pen to draw. In terms of illustrators, I’m a big fan of Jim Flora and Heinz Edelmann, and I’ve recently discovered the work of David Klein, whose work is wonderful.

AL: How big of a role did having popular designs on threadless have on your career? What if any were the milestones in your career?

ML: Threadless was quite significant to my work when I first started creating t-shirt designs. I joined Threadless in the early days when the community was a lot smaller than it is now, and the design process was limited to working at a certain size using only a handful of colours. I experimented with ideas to see how they were received, and after a couple got printed I started working under a new name with a new style. This was when C86 was born, using a folksy / psychedelic style that has continued to develop into what I still do today

AL: Do you design in any other mediums?

ML: T-shirt design is an occasional off-shoot of my daily work. I’ve not submitted to Threadless for a while, but when opportunities arise for t-shirt work it’s always a fun job. I love the creative freedom of it all, and it’s still a buzz to think of people wearing my designs. I’ve just finished a selection of 25 designs where I was given complete license to do what I want. I just let my imagination run wild!

AL: What other steps have you taken to advance your career? Specifically in the online arena?

ML: My career development has been slow and steady. In retrospect things have seemed to fall into place in terms of contacts and developments, but in reality it’s been more a case of being disciplined and consistent in what I do while letting time provide the momentum. An online presence is important in keeping people updated on new work.  There are plenty of creative sites that host portfolios and allow you to share work, and since working freelance can be a lonely pursuit, twitter and forum communities are helpful for meeting like-minded people.

AL: Do you have any other recommendations for people trying to make a name for themselves in graphic tee design?

ML: There are loads of T-shirt competition sites and communities to become involved with, and these are a great place to start. Choose sites that are suited to your interests and style, and then take time to develop ideas as well as the creative and technical skills to execute them. Get to know people and share ideas, and ask for feedback and critique on work. Learning and development is always the best part of being creative.

AL: What’s your personal favorite piece, and what existing or upcoming designs are you particularly excited about?

ML: One of my favourite pieces is my Threadless T-shirt design Subterrain (Make a Wish) because it marks an early starting point of my work under the name of C86. More recently, my AT&T billboard design reflects a more current example of this style and how it’s evolved over the past 5 or more years. For an insight into my creative process, my Daily Drawing project continues to form a valuable focus for my ideas (http://mattlyon.tumblr.com), and the work of my friends at the Black Rock Collective is always worth a look.

AL: Are you also involved in the t-shirt printing process, and if so which process do you prefer?

ML: At present, I’m not a part of the printing process, though I’d love to try out some screen printing again… Something I’ve sadly missed since my days at college.

AL: How would you describe your biggest demographic?

ML: I’m not too sure, so I can only surmise from the people who buy my work or those that follow me via various creative and social sites. I guess the biggest market is formed of those in their twenties with an eye for something colourful!

AL: A lot of people have described your style as abstract and psychedelic – how would you describe it?

ML: I always go along with how other people describe my work because they’re usually better at it than I am. At present, my designs are veering towards more abstract outcomes, and I’d certainly describe them as wild and colourful. At times there are echoes of folk art or vintage design from the 50s or 60s, but these come and go depending upon what I’ve been looking at.

AL: Lastly, do you use drugs and do they play any role in your art?

ML: I’ve not taken drugs for a while, but when I was at university I often experimented with a number of entheogens whilst making artwork. Aside from the way it allowed me to think differently, it provided further insight into a number of artists’ work, such as Henri Michaux and various Outsider artists. And the design style of the Aztecs makes a lot more sense after the use of hallucinogens.

Graphic Tees in Sports Rivalry

Rivalries are a nearly universal element in sports. For countless years, passionate fans have argued and fought for their team of choice. Constantly looking for new outlets to vent their emotions, fans have turned to graphic tees. T-shirts offer a continuous public display of the wearer’s loyalties and send a strong message to any adversaries. These creative graphic tees have poured more gasoline on the fires that fuel some of the world’s greatest sports rivalries.

Yankees vs. Red Sox

Arguably the most well-known and extended sports rivalry, these two teams have a history that goes way back. This graphic tee would most likely be found somewhere on the streets of New York City.

Boston Celtics vs. Los Angeles Lakers

The Celtics and Lakers are two of the most successful franchises in basketball history, together accumulating a total of 33 championships. Inevitably this has lead to a coast vs. coast rivalry that has spanned many decades. This graphic tee displays a mantra that is very common in Beantown.

Michigan vs. Ohio State

The rivalry between Michigan and Ohio can be traced back to a war the occurred during the 1800’s. These two teams have a deep seated hatred for each other that has resulted in intense competition for the greater portion of a century. This t-shirt goes so far as to compare Ohio State fans to less evolved humans.

North Carolina vs. Duke

The rivalry between North Carolina and Duke, commonly referred to as “The Battle of the Blues”, is exacerbated by the fact that the two schools reside only 8 miles apart. With a reputation for some of the craziest fans, UNC fans would be proud to wear this graphic tee.

There word hipster invokes the the momentary feeling of bile welling up in one’s throat and it’s rare to see anyone willingly identifying themselves with the title.  Yet, I write this article because I’ve noticed a growing trend among the hipster crowd as I walk through the streets of New York City.  They have gone from tight, spandex clothing from American Apparel, to the coveted DIY graphic t-shirts reminiscent of the punk generation.  Much like the the proverbial parasite described by Agent Smith in the movie – The Matrix, the hipster is a consumer of worlds (or in this case other subcultures).  Hipsterdom constantly attempts to appropriate iconic materials of other subcultures, deem it cool, and then call it their own; the graphic tee-shirt is no different scenario. 

This idea of Hipsterdom and how it’s destrying not only the individuality driven graphic tee, but also all of western counter culture is best described in this article here: 

Below is a short quote from the indepth article:

The American Apparel V-neck shirt, Pabst Blue Ribbon beer and Parliament cigarettes are symbols and icons of working or revolutionary classes that have been appropriated by hipsterdom and drained of meaning. Ten years ago, a man wearing a plain V-neck tee and drinking a Pabst would never be accused of being a trend-follower. But in 2008, such things have become shameless clichés of a class of individuals that seek to escape their own wealth and privilege by immersing themselves in the aesthetic of the working class.

It’s amazing what happens to those famous Disney actors that you grow up with; you watch them on television parading around as little kids and when you’re turn your back they’re taking off their t-shirts and showing everyone just how ‘grown up’ they really are.  I was browsing the internet this morning (with all good intentions) and I came across a short article about Adrienne Bailone, one of the famous “Cheetah” members supposedly a series of risque pictures were leaked onto the internet from her personal computer (4chan must be having a blast with this). The actress who is normally seen on television wearing babydoll t-shirts and trendy distressed jeans had nothing to had for whomever the pictures were intended for. Below is a clip from the article that brought her to my attention:

“Melbourne, November 10 (ANI): Naked pictures of singer Adrienne Bailon have leaked on the Internet, making her the latest Disney star involved in a nude scandal.

The 25-year-old Adrienne had apparently taken her nude pictures to send to beau Rob Kardashian, and had lost her laptop at JKF airport in October, reports the Daily Telegraph….” (http://www.thaindian.com)

Kardashian, eh? Not the first time that we’ve heard that last name involved with some sort of sex/nude/underage scandal and I’m sure it won’t be the last. Why Adrienne was sending him of all the people in the world pictures is beyond my comprehension. All the same, a simple Google search will turn up the pictures if you’ve got to find out whether the story is fake or not.

Palin Wink T-Shirts coming soon?

Last night, Sarah Palin decided to wink to America. It’s the Al Gore sigh in the year 2008. It’s the Howard Dean scream. It’s… on a t-shirt!

2008 is a sad year for all Americans whether we like it or not.  With the Presendtial campaign winding down we have come to realize all of the flaws in our checks and balances system that our founding fathers deviously devised.  Our presidental candidates have resorted to fear tactics to scare voters to choose, and most of all, our economy is in the toilet.  A toilet made in China.

Everything we own comes from an Asian continent.  Why?  I haven’t the slightest idea anymore.  Do employers and people on wallstreet have any idea how much money American would rake in if it produced it’s own products?  How many jobs it would give Americans that deserve it?  The arrogance of bankers, congress, and politicians alike amazes me, but I never thought I would see the day that even the graphic t-shirts that I’ve come to love would fall prey to economic troubles and Asian outsourcing.  Even those trendy artists and tree huggers alike that claim their tees that they sell on the streets of major cities are ‘homemade’ fail to note that the cotten t-shirts that they are printing on come from China, Taiwan, or some other country selling them at dirt cheap wholesale prices.  Ninety-seven percent of all clothing sold in the United States is no longer made in the U.S. Yet, Minnesota is home to two long-standing textile manufacturers. 

Today I am offering a retrospective, and a digital monument to all of those creative graphic t-shirts made in America.

Sarah Palin, though a divisive Republican, is totally hot. That’s not even the half of it, she’s hands down one of the most attractive older women I’ve ever had the pleasure of resting my eyes on and though I’m not a fan of her politics and beliefs, I would gladly enjoy staring at her everytime she has to give a speech if she and McCain win the presidential nomination. But I’m not here to ran about just how smokin’ hot Palin is, I’m here to talk about how quickly those bright brown eyes of hers wooed fashion designers around America into producing a clothing line just for her. Within hours after her official nomination as the running make for John McCain there was a flurish of graphic tees and babydoll t-shirts depicting Sarah Palin as either hot, sexy, or in the case of the opening picture: “My homegirl” The fandom of Palin doesn’t stop with clothing. Her most notable internet mime is the quote: “Hottest VP – Coldest State”. Whoever came up with that line was a genius. Much like Nintendo’s “Wii”, Palin’s catchphrase is easy to remember and fun to say. Free viral marketing. If Palin’s stardom continues to grow Obama might start to have some competition for his ‘celebrity’ status.

“Barack Obama, the breakout hit of the summer” DNC News.

Maybe Im the only one who finds that hilariously accurate, but once I saw that quote on a graphic t-shirt, I just had to post about it. I found this blog called “tree hugger” the other day and amid their posts about eco-loving and environmentalists of the USA that express moving concerns for wildlife, there was a small and yet poignant post: Mother Lovin Obama. The graphic as seen above can stand on its own as a poster, desktop wallpaper, or even your trendy iPhone background. If youve been keeping up with this urban fashion blog, then Im sure youve noticed that Ive been on a tangent of Barack Obama and his relation to todays youth fashion. I should of course make it clear I have no actual political affiliation. If McCain or Barr had graphic tees, canvas bags, and backpacks as cool as Obama Paraphernalia I would be more than happy to write about it. But this is very far from reality so youre stuck with Obama as my prime example of politics and fashion. The 70s funk feel on this t-shirt is reminiscent of the Good Ol Days where having fun was okay and people were inclined to believe in things like hope, change, and human integrity (as well as a little dance part-ay now and then). The Obama graphic tee capitalizes on not only appealing to the white hipster demographic, but it also appeals to the urban fashion community and successfully melds itself within the fashion grassroots effort by the Obama campaign. The t-shirt was design by Aron Kressner of Vivavi.

I had come across this article ages ago (since I’m a city dweller ages ago happens to translate to ‘a month’ ago) which discussed how Obama had won the graphic t-shirt race. I was slightly confused as to whether or not fashion had anything to do with politics; moreover, the presidential race. Here is a short quip from what I read:

“…another thing that Obama has going for him is that the graphic t-shirts depicting him are still rather exclusive diverse and some are hard to find. New York clothing stores have not yet embraced these graphic t shirts and therefore, leave intact the feeling of wearing something original when one finds an unusual political message t shirt that support that candidate. What Obama has achieved is an online marketing campaign that runs itself through its young supporters and graphic tee designers, something that McCain may have to pay for dearly later down the road. “Al Keser

Aside from being well written, it’s extremely on point. Clothing has become an integral part of the grassroots support for Barack Obama and it seems a little too late for the other candidates to catch up to him. This notion of t shirts, Obama, and support were merely reinforced in my mind by an article I found in yesterday’s edition of “The Cut”, an editorial fashion blog by Amy Odell who works for New York Magazine. The Obama campaign seems to have picked up on the fact that people are making t-shirts by the boatload on his behalf without him ever having to raise a finger. The smart marketing team (which is sounding a lot like a group of twenty year olds with bright futures) decided to launch an official Obama clothing campaign. Here are the details from The Cut:

“Barack Obama’s campaign has arranged for twenty fashion designers to create clothing and tote bags to sell on the campaign’s Website next month.

Well look at that, not only is Coach letting the public design their canvas tote bags, but so is the Obama Campaign. Is anyone noticing a trend in user generated content? I am. It’s nice to see that Obama, or at least the people that works under him are smart enough to keep abreast of the trends like web 2.0 and user-generated content. I suppose that this makes it clear who has a better understand of major internet issues such as net-neutrality. The use of home made graphic t shirts in order to raise support for a candidate might seem silly to you; but many would be surprised to find out how much of what they own, do, think, and act are influenced by what others are wearing and doing.